As I mentioned earlier, we visited Portland and Bend, Oregon, over Memorial Day weekend. The main impetus behind the trip was that the Decemberists were playing a concert in Bend. This was the only Decemberists show scheduled for the near future (though it turns out they performed at an Obama rally in Portland the previous weekend), so we figured we might as well visit a new place and see the Decemberists perform while we were at it! I had only ever heard favorable things about Bend (both from Sunset and from Oregonian coworkers), so I was excited to see it firsthand.
Thursday, May 22
We flew to Portland after work on Thursday, rented a car, and drove to our favorite affordable place to stay in Portland, Bluebird Guesthouse. Since we were going to go straight to bed that night and then leave first thing in the morning, we weren't too picky about which room we got, and we ended up in the Elliott Smith room in the basement. It had low ceilings and not a lot of light, but it did the job just fine. I liked the carpet! I'd definitely recommend Bluebird if you want to stay in SE Portland and don't mind sharing a bathroom with a few other people. (Sorry, these are all cell phone pictures; our camera wasn't cooperating on this trip)
Friday, May 23
We woke up the next morning and got all packed up. There was a nice but confused old woman staying at Bluebird. She seemed to think that we were backpackers, and she recommended that we hike the Appalachian Trail someday. We thanked her for the advice.
We headed up to Belmont for breakfast at Jace Gace, a waffle and art cafe. The weather was drizzly and gray (it was actually that way most of the time we were there), and the only other people around were construction workers. I liked the decor at Jace Gace--they had cool woodwork on the ceiling (planks ending in a grid of wood blocks of varying heights) and a Jace Gace crest, with a waffle and some leaping stags.
Patrick had an attractive cup of hot chocolate and a traditional Belgian waffle with yogurt and strawberries. I was more in the mood for a savory breakfast, so I had the huevos rancheros waffle, topped with poached eggs, black beans, and salsa. Good stuff.
After breakfast, we left Portland and drove down to Silverton. Along the way, we passed Angel's Table, a German restaurant in Mt. Angel that we'd considered visiting for lunch but that appeared to be closed for good. Mt. Angel was all quaint and looked like an old-timey German village. They had signs up for Oktoberfest. Fun :)
Although it was raining, we drove out to Havenhill Lavender Farm to take a look around. The drive out there was beautiful (green rolling hills and tree-lined gorges), but when we got there it turned out the lavender wasn't really growing yet (makes sense), and there didn't seem to be a store to visit, so we walked around the grounds a little bit in the drizzle and then headed back to Silverton. We'll have to visit again when it's a little later in the year.
Once back in Silverton, we stopped at Rolling Hills Bakery for a quick lunch. I had a cup of silver chili and half a roasted veggie sandwich. I liked the mug that the chili was served in. They had some exciting-looking carrot cake rolls (like cinnamon rolls but with carrots in the dough and cream cheese icing, I think), but we were too full to try one. It was a nice little cafe, and a lot of locals came in for lunch while we were there.
On the way back to our car (which, incidentally, was parked for a very low price--10 cents an hour. The meter wouldn't even take quarters!), I was lured into Stomp by some very cute shoes. The salesgirl there was really nice and easygoing, and I ended up buying a pair of silver flats. They're handmade in Poland by a company called Oleksy, and apparently Stomp is one of two US retailers to carry them. I'm a sucker for hard-to-get items, and the shoes made me happy, so I bought them. Plus, no sales tax!
It was a long but scenic drive over the Cascades to Bend. I was very excited to see little tiny waterfalls right next to the highway as we drove along (I suppose those are the cascades the mountains were named for). Our rental car came with XM radio, and we found a '90s alternative station, which we listened to the rest of the way there, with a brief bluegrass interlude at Patrick's request.
We arrived in Bend a little too early to check into Lara House, so we walked a couple blocks to downtown Bend and got a lemon-marionberry scone at DiLusso Bakery. Bend's downtown is really nice--well-kept historical buildings and lots of good restaurants. It reminded me of Fort Collins.
When it was time, we checked in at the Lara House, which was beautiful and very well-located (near a big park, the river, and downtown). The innkeeper was friendly, and after settling in, we came downstairs for the wine and cheese hour. Unfortunately, I'm bad about introducing myself to people I don't know, so I just grabbed some cheese and crackers and retreated to our room, while Patrick braved the living room for a while longer.
From our room, we had a view of a very nice house across the alley, which had a fence made of skis and a two-story garage. I asked the innkeeper about the garage at breakfast the next day, and she said it was for the family's RV. She also said that the people who own that house owned the Lara House before it was a bed and breakfast.
We walked downtown for dinner at Blacksmith, which was housed in a restored blacksmith's shop. I liked the interior--they had kept the original banged-up and drilled-into beams and brick walls. Our waiters were a little too cheery and fawning, but the food was very good. The only low point in the meal was the Caesar salad, which wasn't very exciting (but I did like the toasted polenta croutons that came with it). Everything else was delicious, and I would love to go there again, because there were tons of things on the menu that sounded good. I had an excellent 24-hour-brined apple cider pork chop with perfect collard greens and smoked cheddar mac and cheese. Patrick had the campfire trout with cowboy caponata ("cowboy" because all of the vegetables were grilled beforehand), beer barley risotto, and a honey nut beurre blanc. He also had the Unami cocktail, which was a savory cocktail with avocado and cucumber (no, that's not a typo--they spell it with an "n" for some reason). Patrick had two, so it must have been good.
Saturday, May 24
Although there were a bunch of good-looking breakfast places in Bend that we wanted to visit, we stayed at Lara House for breakfast on Saturday morning because the innkeeper prepared the whole meal herself, and it was reputed to be delicious. It was delicious indeed, and quite an elaborate spread! We had asparagus-mushroom crepes, roasted potatoes, chicken-apple sausages, fruit, and blueberry-lemon crisp with fresh whipped cream. Wow! The innkeeper makes breakfast every day, keeps the rooms clean (with a little help), buys and arranges flowers, welcomes guests, updates the website, advertises, and plans future breakfasts. I'm impressed! Apparently she was a personal trainer in San Diego, and then she met the owner of the Lara House at a coffee shop, gave him her last business card, and then he called her up a few days later to offer her the job. Life is so unpredictable!
At breakfast, all of the guests sat together, so I had to socialize, and it turned out that we had something in common with everybody there (of course). There was a couple from Portland, two guys from Boise who were there to see the Decemberists, and two cyclists, among others. We spent a long time talking with the couple from Portland about things they like about Portland and whether we should move there.
After gorging ourselves at breakfast (who can resist blueberry crisp with fresh whipped cream for breakfast?), we walked through Drake Park (very expansive and green), over a sweet little footbridge, across the river, past an all-American Little League game, to Hutch's Bikes. I must admit, Bend looks like it would be a great place to raise a family, if only it weren't so isolated and had so few tech employers. It's so tidy and wholesome and outdoorsy!
We both had a little trouble getting used to our rented mountain bikes, as I was used to riding much more upright on my Townie, and Patrick was used to riding more bent over on his road bike. We biked a couple miles on the Deschutes River Trail to see how to get to the Les Schwab Amphitheater for the concert that evening. Next, we biked down to Farewell Bend Park, which was full of informational placards! The trail was a little hard to find in places, but it was a pleasant ride along the river.
Next, we biked to the Victorian Cafe for lunch. They're one of Bend's top restaurants, known for their breakfasts. There was a bit of a wait, so we grabbed a spot on a bench out front, with a good view of a bunch of hipsters (with dogs!). We both ended up having breakfast for lunch, since that's their specialty. Patrick had their almond-biscotti-encrusted French toast, and I had the smoked salmon scramble on asiago-potato pancakes with housemade applesauce and an apple-cinnamon scone. Everything was really good. No wonder all the hipsters go there! I'd definitely want to go there for breakfast a lot if we lived in Bend.
We had spotted a cake shop with a "Grand Opening" sign out front on our ride up to the cafe, so on our way back we stopped in for some cupcakes. It wasn't exactly clear how to get cupcakes (they seemed more like a catering company than a bakery), but we managed to obtain a lemon cupcake with cream cheese frosting, which we took back to the Lara House for our afternoon snack. We took an impromptu nap and then ate our cupcake. What a good way to spend the afternoon.
Our pre-concert dinner was a little stressful, because I realized that the concert started earlier than I'd thought, and our original destination (Deschutes Brewery) had a long wait. So instead we had a quick and unremarkable dinner at Soba Noodle and Rice (I'd actually like a place like that around here, since the food is pretty healthy and affordable, but it didn't make for a very exciting dinner, especially since we were in a rush). After wolfing down our stir-fry, we quickly biked to the amphitheatre. We were able to park our bikes right by the entrance and get right in line. We felt very proud of ourselves when we biked past all the people who had to park their cars far away and walk.
All our rushing was for naught, as the gates weren't even open when we arrived. It was rainy and cold, but we were willing to brave the weather to see the Decemberists. There was an authentic emo kid from Vancouver in line in front of us. He commented that Bend was a little too perfect, like Pleasantville. I can see where he was coming from--it's unusual to have almost everything in town look so nice and well-kept (but there were some areas on the outskirts that were more run-down, so I don't think they built the whole town 5 years ago and fabricated its history).
We hadn't brought an umbrella because we figured they wouldn't be allowed inside, but a bunch of other people had them. People came prepared with tarps, garbage bags, and even a tent! We set down Patrick's waterproof bike jacket, set our picnic blanket on top of that, and then huddled together for warmth. It was pretty miserable for a while. Our pants and socks had gotten wet while we waited in line, so it was hard to warm up. But we were still excited to be there.
The show got started a little late, and Mates of State went on first. We knew a few of their songs, most notably Like U Crazy, because our college friend Drew appears in the music video. It's like he's famous!
And then it was time for the Decemberists! They weren't the main band, so they didn't play for hours, but it was a pretty long set. They played a good mix of songs, including some new stuff from their upcoming album (Valerie Plame is very catchy). It's fun seeing them perform live. At one point, Colin stopped the song and had the crowd do calisthenics to help us warm up, and then later on the Decemberists Family Players re-enacted the founding of Bend (in which Lewis and Clark discovered Bend and gave the Native Americans some blankets, which gave them the chicken pox, and then they died).
The crowd seemed pretty into it, which was good. I had been worried that the majority of people were there for Death Cab for Cutie (the headliner) and wouldn't be very excited about the Decemberists. But it actually seemed like a lot of the people had come specifically for the Decemberists (probably since they haven't been touring, so this was the only chance to see them perform).
I had hoped that they would perform Chimbley Sweep, but we were nearing the end, and no luck. When we got to the last song, Colin told a story about meeting John McCain backstage at the Obama rally the previous weekend, and he said McCain had told him of his hardscrabble childhood. And then he launched into the little prelude that you hear in the video linked above (saying that this was the story John McCain told him about his childhood). And then he started playing Chimbley Sweep, and the crowd went wild. I was happy :)
We stuck around for a few Death Cab songs, but neither of us really knows their music that well, and it continued to be cold and wet, and the sun was setting, so we left. Outside the amphitheatre, we ran into two girls who asked if they could have our tickets. We told them the tickets wouldn't do them any good (no re-entry allowed), but they were going to try to get back in anyway. When we handed over the tickets, Patrick's was soggy and torn in half from all the rain, and the girl who got stuck with that ticket decided she'd say it fell in the toilet. Good plan! I admired their tenacity.
Back at the Lara House, we put on as many warm clothes as possible, and then we walked to the Deschutes Brewery for a second dinner (I was ravenous from all that shivering!). This dinner was much more satisfying. We both had the hamburgers, which are notable because the brewery has a deal with a nearby farmer, in which they feed the cows their spent grain from beermaking, and then they use the cows to make their hamburgers (see this video at 2:20). It's a beautiful circle of life! They were tasty burgers, and the fries were really good. I also had some of their housemade root beer. A very good meal.
Sunday, May 25
Despite my interest in checking out Alpenglow for breakfast, we ended up having breakfast at Lara House again, since it was just too good to pass up. This time, we had a Spanish torta, hashbrowns, fruit, bacon, lemon-ginger scones with lemon curd, and strawberry-rhubarb pie with whipped cream. I had committed to eating less food this time, but I couldn't resist the pie, and I ended up pretty full.
After returning our bikes to Hutch's, it was time to leave Bend. I had wanted to go to Merenda for lunch, but we were too full (and it was only 10:30 in the morning). Next time!
We took a different route back to Portland, via Government Camp. At my request, we drove up to Timberline Lodge for lunch, which ended up being a pretty harrowing drive, as the fog descended and the road became steep and winding. However, we got to the lodge safely, and the views were pretty awesome. It was crazy--all of a sudden the sun came out and we were surrounded by snow and skiers, even though it was the end of May.
We hiked up the driveway to the quaint old lodge, which was apparently used for the exterior shots in The Shining. The interior was all log cabin-y and cozy. It seemed like a nice place to go for a ski weekend, if you're into that kind of thing. We headed over to the Cascade Dining Room and waited an inordinately long time to be seated (it wasn't that they were busy and there was a long wait; the hostess just kept doing other stuff and avoiding eye contact with us for over 5 minutes). If we hadn't just driven 6 miles up a mountain to get there, we probably would've turned around and gone somewhere else to eat.
Once we were seated, the experience got better. Our waitress was nice, and we got to sit next to a window with a good view of the snow and trees. I ordered the hot cocoa, which turned out to be the most over-the-top hot chocolate I've ever had. It was in a giant glass mug, topped with whipped cream and toffee bits and chocolate syrup, if I recall correctly. It was very good, and I would definitely drink hot cocoa by the fireplace every afternoon if I were on vacation at the Timberline Lodge. Our entrees were pretty good. I had a polenta pulled pork strata. I'd say the meal wasn't quite worth the stress of the drive up, but I'm glad we had the experience.
The sun was out for our drive back down, which was nice. We continued on into Portland. The iPhone took us on a rather circuitous route, through depressingly run-down parts of the suburbs skirting Portland. We got to the Ace Hotel a little early, but they let us check in. I was very excited to stay there, but I was a little worried that they would be mean to me because I'm not a hipster. But everybody was pleasant, and I very much enjoyed our stay.
The Ace Hotel isn't for everybody, as the TripAdvisor reviews suggest. I liked it though. The art is different in each room, and our room had a cute wall mural by Trish Grantham painted on top of wallpaper made from pages out of an old history book. There was a clawfoot tub with quality bath products and a very nice soap dish.
The bed had a custom Pendleton blanket with the Ace Hotel deer on it, and the laundry bag was an old mail bag. There was even a hipster mini bar with Dagoba chocolate, Lara bars, stroopwaffles, and Coke with real sugar. The guest book was an old library card catalog filled with notes on index cards. There was a photo booth in the lobby. The public bathroom was papered in player piano reels. So many great details! And I was really happy with the location near the Pearl District and Downtown. My only regret is that we didn't have time to rent the Jorg and Olif bikes (with generator headlights!) at the front desk and bike around the waterfront. If we were looking for a place to stay downtown, I'd happily stay at Ace again.
The parking situation at Ace wasn't ideal (street parking required moving the car every day, and the paid parking lot nearby was pretty pricy), so we decided to return our rental car to the airport and just take public transit around for the few days we would be in Portland. We dropped the car off at the airport and then took the MAX and a bus back into town. The bus we were on took us through some of the seedier parts of town, on Sandy Blvd. We passed a business named the Pirate's Cove, which is a pirate-themed strip club (but it does not have the best strippers in town, apparently). Cool!
We headed straight to Burnside, for dinner at Screen Door. I was so excited to be there, since our attempt to eat there on a previous visit had failed. I was not disappointed. This was one of my favorite Portland meals to date. Part of the charm was the laid-back waitresses (one of whom had a tattoo on her back of The Creation of Adam, but with a naked lady instead of Adam--Eve, I suppose) and the diverse clientele. It just felt like a nice neighborhood restaurant.
And the menu was so exciting! I had trouble deciding what to get, but I finally went with the Screen Door plate (a combo plate--my favorite!) with a yummy salad, kale with white beans, mac and cheese (all browned and delicious on top), and cornbread with honey. The salad and kale both came from their special local/organic menu. This place has all my favorite things! Oh, and I had sweet tea, which was awesome and came with free refills. We split a piece of pineapple-upside-down skillet cake for dessert. I love you, Screen Door!
After dinner, we decided to see a movie (Be Kind Rewind) at the Laurelhurst Theater (only $3/ticket, comfy seats, and beer and donuts for sale--if only every movie theater were like that!). The movie was fun, and the bus came right after we got out of the theater. Back downtown, we made a quick stop at Powells and then walked back to the hotel.
Monday, May 26
On Monday morning, we walked to Bijou Cafe for breakfast. We managed to beat the morning rush just barely (I guess that's the risk you take going to a popular brunch place on Memorial Day). Patrick had the French toast and a small pecan sticky bun (more sticky buns should be that size; if it had been Cinnabon-sized, we would've felt sick after breakfast). I had the most perfectly made omelet ever, with green onions, bacon, and goat cheddar (which was indeed goaty). I don't know how they did it, but the egg blanket was really tender and fluffy. Definitely get an omelet if you go there.
Next, we took the bus up to N. Mississippi, one of my favorite streets in Portland. The bus ride there wasn't that great. As we were pulling away from one of the stops, everybody on the right side of the bus gasped and yelled at the bus driver to stop. It turned out that there was a very drunk man hanging onto the side of the bus, and he almost got run over as it pulled away. But he apparently wasn't too hurt, as he boarded the bus after we stopped and shook off the people who tried to help him. And then he sat there and looked very close to puking (I guess I would be too, if I'd almost been run over by a bus). It was an uncomfortable situation, so Patrick and I got off a little early and walked the rest of the way.
Most of the stores on Mississippi were open despite the holiday, so I stopped at Flutter, Pistils (they had baby chicks!), and The Meadow. This was my first visit to The Meadow, which was a small store full of gourmet salt, chocolate, and flowers. An interesting combination. Patrick had no interest in gourmet salt, so he went to the comic book store instead. The people working there seemed really nice and knowledgeable. I bought some sort of corn nut chocolate bar made by Sahagun. It was pretty tasty, though it took us a while to figure out why the crunchy bits tasted so familiar.
Among the many exciting flowers for sale at The Meadow were gigantic poppies. We'd seen similarly huge poppies in yards around the city that weekend. I had never seen poppies that big! The lady I asked didn't know what kind of poppies they were; she said she bought them at the farmers' market.
Sadly, Gravy was just closing for the day when we got around to thinking about lunch (plus we were still pretty full from breakfast), so instead we grabbed some tasty little tacos and an horchata at Por Que No. I may have committed a breach of Portland etiquette by claiming a table before Patrick placed our order. This is common practice in California (especially at Cafe Borrone during the lunch rush!), but I heard two different women debating with their friends over whether it was morally acceptable to take a table before one's order was placed (I don't think these conversations were directed at me; I just happened to overhear them). Of course, a bunch of other people did the same thing I did, so I don't think my premature table-grabbing was too out of line.
The outside tables were full of hip, young Portland types, including a pale and overly-talkative girl with a large red balloon tied to her chair. Apparently she stole it from a sale display at Mattress World. It attracted a lot of attention from passers by.
After lunch, we decided to go spend some time in Washington Park (a forest right inside the city--I still can't get over how cool that is!). We took the MAX there and then spent a long time trying to find a bathroom at the Washington Park MAX station. The station maps said there was one, but we couldn't figure out how to interpret the maps or how to get into the doors that looked most like they could be bathroom doors. Eventually we gave up and paid $7 each for tickets to the World Forestry Center Discovery Museum, since their bathrooms were for paying customers only. We decided we might as well look around the museum for that much money. It was a pretty lame museum--all about logging. We were dissatisfied. I'd thought it might be worth the money, because the nice old lady at the front desk was telling some other customers (a group of four 30-something men, who probably also just needed to use the bathroom) how much they'd enjoy the museum. Bah! To defray the cost of our tickets, we each used the bathroom twice.
We spent a good amount of time walking around Washington Park, first through the Oregon Vietnam Veterans Memorial. There were quite a few people there, since it was Memorial Day. It was a nice memorial, with the names of the men who died displayed alongside local news items from each year of the war. We walked about 3 miles on the Wildwood trail (not too crowded, but pretty muddy). When we were tired of the forest, we caught the bus downtown (there are a couple of bus stops along the trail). It was so weird--we were in the forest, and then a few minutes later, we were in downtown Portland!
It felt like a good time to go have pearl milk tea at Tea Chai Te on NW 23rd Ave, so we hopped on the streetcar to NW. I had pink grapefruit pearl milk tea, which was pretty good (and unusual!). Then it was back on the streetcar to the Pearl District, where we had dinner at Clyde Common (located on the ground floor of our hotel).
At Clyde Common, we were seated at a long table, facing the street, which made for good people-watching. I had a house-made rosemary-thyme soda, which tasted just like you might imagine. It was a little too herby for me. We started with some awesome focaccia with olive oil and pepper, and then split a salad involving smoked rock fish. We both had delicious pasta dishes for our entrees--mine was bucatini with butter, herbs, and a poached egg on top. I suppose it was just glorified buttered noodles, but it was awesome. We got some tasty spiced chickpeas on the side, and then we split the rhubarb sorbet with rosewater cream and shortbread for dessert. It was all very good, but the focaccia and pasta were outstanding. Best hotel restaurant ever! I'd definitely go there again.
Tuesday, May 27
On Tuesday morning, we took the bus (sitting behind a man who reeked heavily of cigarette smoke and was listening to music on his headphones way too loud; I guess the bus is never all that pleasant) to SE Portland for breakfast at Broder. As we approached, we realized that it was where Henry's used to be. It's sad that Henry's closed. But at least Broder serves breakfast too, and it's just as cute and inviting.
The breakfast menu had all sorts of exciting options. We ended up splitting a plate of abelskiver and a breakfast bord (salami, cheese, hearty bread, rye crisp, lingonberry jam, half a grapefruit, and yogurt with honey and strawberries). The concept of a breakfast bord is very appealing to me--you get a little bit of everything! The abelskiver were tasty, but I had been expecting some sort of delicious puffy cinnamon-sugar donut hole (like we had at Gravy!), and they weren't quite that awesome. Just a case of unreasonable expectations. The breakfast bord was enjoyable though. I'd happily go there again.
We walked around Hosford-Abernethy, idly looking for homes for sale. We stopped in at Seven Corners Cycles, and I was amused to realize that a bike frame (their logo) does indeed have seven corners (Seven Corners is also the name of that part of Hosford-Abernethy). Very clever.
On our walk, we passed a great-looking house for sale for under $500,000 (so cheap compared to the Bay Area!). We sighed because it looked so perfect--great neighborhood, nice Craftsman details, 4 bedrooms, and a big garage workshop! Ah, Portland.
After heading back downtown and checking out of our hotel, we had a little time to kill, so Patrick humored me, and we spent an hour or so looking at some stores I'd wanted to visit. Two of the stores were closed, even though they were supposed to be open (I'm looking at you, English Department and Hunt and Gather), and Cargo wasn't really my style, but I liked Flora. Patrick talked me out of buying a print of a little girl with some garden gnomes, but I did buy the Lotta Jansdotter tote bag I'd had my eye on for a while, on sale no less!
We stopped for lunch at Park Kitchen. I liked it there--the people were friendly, and the food was unique. I had a bottle of Dry rhubarb soda, a bowl of excellent nettle soup with saffron clams and pickled onions, and a so-so pistachio-raisin-pheasant terrine (the roast beef salad would've been better in retrospect, as I heard people at the neighboring table raving about it). Maybe I'm just not a terrine person. The desserts were the best part--I wanted to try every single thing on the dessert menu! Patrick had the violet meringue (more like a big fluffy marshmallow) with a secret truffle center and a side of chocolate mousse. I had the pistachio-black sesame turnover with rosewater ice cream and strawberries. Yum!
Once we were done with lunch, it was time to head for the airport. Sigh. It was a good Oregon visit.